This will be short stream of consciousness, scant of any proper analysis- you’ve been warned.

I loved The Hunger Games book series, written by Suzanne Collins. In 2012 Lionsgate release an adaptation of the first book in the series, and I was so excited to see the dystopian world of Panem realised.

As a fan of the books, there was a lot that I was looking forward to, but the one thing I was most looking forward to see was the costume design. In The Hunger Games books clothing is a main feature, highlighting fashion’s power to convey important socio-political messages.

I have loved fashion and costume design ever since I was little so I was eager to see what the filmmakers had in store. And yet I remember leaving the cinema feeling disappointed in the film’s interpretation of fashion of Panem, and I couldn’t put my finger on why that was.

Well it’s been nearly ten years and I’ve had plenty of time to think about it, and I think I’ve pinned down the issue I have with these costumes.

I’d like to make clear that I am in no way implying that the designers for these films did a bad job. These costumes are undeniably well designed and create a fully realised world for these films to take place in.

I’d also like to make clear that I completely understand that books are open for interpretation, and just because the costumes did not perfectly fit what I imagined when reading the books it doesn’t mean they’re wrong.

Now I’ve made those two things clear, time to completely disregard them. THE HUNGER GAMES COSTUME DESIGNERS DID A BAD JOB AND THEIR INTERPRETATION IS WRONG! joke.

But I do think they missed an opportunity with the costume design to turn the mirror on the audience, particularly the design of the Capitol citizens.

The Hunger Games is set some time in the near future, but if you look at the costumes particularly in the first film, you can see a clear late 17th, 18th and early 19th Century influence. Large wigs, fans, powdered faces, gloves, corsets, the whole shebang.

The books establish that wigs and makeup are commonplace in the Capitol, but for the films that could have just as easily be interpreted as this-

or this or this.

Both of these examples keep the aesthetic rooted in a familiar reality, which is kind of what I expected to see but with a futuristic flavouring to it.
But, Judianna Makovsky (costume designer), Ve Neill and Linda Flowers (hair and makeup) decided to go with this…

…creating a culture that draws inspiration from British and European styles around and after the time of the American revolution. I found this sophisticated socialite take on the Capitol surprising, as in the book they never really struck me as a society of class, but of gross excess and waste.

The visual implication seems to be clear here. The Capitol are the British (also characterised by their transatlantic accents). And the Thirteen districts of Panem are the Thirteen Colonies of America. Sorted. And these are all fair adaptational choices.
But for a book series that was praised for being highly political the costumes of the 2012 adaptation of The Hunger Games feels like a futuristic retelling of American history. This Revolutionary influence positions the viewer (particularly American viewers) as the downtrodden rebels, versus an aristocratic ruling class.

But this has always felt wrong to me, the book’s Capitol citizens are people of gross excess, constantly changing fashions. They’re not hoity-toity aristocrats tottering around in corsets and powdered wigs- yes I am stating my interpretation as fact, sue me.

The Capitol has a reliance on fast fashion made by exploited workers…

…food produced and farmed by exploited workers…

…and a love of voyeurisitic entertainment that exploits the pain and humiliation of others, and entertainment depicting violent death…

well I kind of felt like the book was telling us that WE are the Capitol. We being the modern West.

But the design of the characters creates such a visual difference from that message, that The Hunger Games doesn’t feel like the inevitable future of Capitalism and our society’s greed, excess, vapidity, and relative ignorance of the unseen human cost.
The film’s Capitol is a total fantasy, with none of the social commentary of the books. The costumes seem more concerned with America’s rebellious past rather than its present.

The films’ costumes become further estranged from the books with successive instalments, featuring avant-garde runway pieces from such fashion houses as Alexander McQueen and The House of Worth…

…pushing the Capitol from the realms of the aristocracy, to the aristocracy in haute couture, ‘flanderizing’ their aesthetic even more.


All the Capitol citizens look like they’ve just come off a runway, or stepped out of a history book in every scene. Nobody ever looks like they’re just nipping out to the shops, or coming back from work, I just don’t buy it. I wish the filmmakers had taken a different approach, incorporating more casual and streetwear looks.

YES the books describe the Capitol as extravagant, but the books are written entirely from Katniss’s point of view, and she has lived her whole life in abject poverty.

If you lived in abject poverty wouldn’t brightly coloured clothing look extravagant to you? The costumes should have been extravagant to Katniss, but more familiar to the audience.

Not only would a more grounded and varied aesthetic be more believable, but it would also highlight comparison between the Capitol and the audience- a relevant comparison if you ask me.

The costumes in The Hunger Games films are great, theres no denying it (even if it seems like I’m denying it), but I feel they would’ve been more impactful if they had taken the books’ lead in conveying social issues to an audience through fashion, rather than conveying…

…that you should buy Alexander McQueen? Idk. Maybe I’m missing the point.

What do you think? Comment below or beef me on instagram.
Joe Jordan x


























































































































































































































